Bologna,
for me, is divided into two areas; the historical city center which everyone
here refers to as the centro and outside the city center. It is funny because
Bologna is not that big but these two areas, which border each other, seem like
different worlds. It is such a different mindset when you are going to go
somewhere in the city center versus outside of the city center. If I am going
into the city center, I am going to be walking whereas if I go outside of the
city center I will be driving. The city center feels comfortable, like a well-worn
in pair of shoes, and it is like being at home in that it affords endless
possibilities. Breakfast in the city center can lead to going shopping or
visiting a museum which leads to lunch and then more meandering around until it
is time for aperitivo with friends and then dinner. There are endless
possibilities. Outside of the city center is a little more business-like. There
is a mission, you get in the car, drive to your destination, accomplish the goal,
and drive home. It is because I feel so differently about these two parts of my
city that when people inquire about my favorite places (e.g. for gelato, food
markets, restaurants) I always have to classify my in the city favorites and my
out of the city favorites. For every
favorite I have in the city – I have an equal but opposite favorite outside of
the city.
So why
explain all of this? Well, today I would like to tell you about my favorite
breakfast place outside of the city center. This is a place that many people,
residents and visitors alike, might find a bit scomodo (uncomfortable) to get
to but that I guarantee is worth the trip. The place is called La Caramella and
it is the pasticceria (bakery) of Gino Fabbri, a real genius with pastry, and
funnily enough but also perfectly enough, it is located at the Granarolo milk
company – one of the biggest milk producers in the area. The outside of the bakery
does not look like much but once you step inside you can tell you are somewhere
special.
On the mornings when I am very lucky, I will arrive just as a big tray
of fresh brioche salata (plain croissants)are being taken out of the oven.
When
that happens I have no doubt what I will order for breakfast. The fresh, hot
croissant is buttery and super flaky (you will make a mess as you eat your
croissant – you just have to accept it – don’t be embarrassed and don’t try to
fight it) and perfectly satisfying. If I feel like a change of pace, I will try
one of the seasonal offerings; last summer, they had brioche with rich, eggy custard
and fresh cherries and in fall they will often have brioche with the always
popular chestnuts. After ordering a brioche, I proceed over to the bar where I
place my coffee order –most likely a cappuccino.
Most people will stand at the
bar to eat their pastry and drink their coffee (Italian style!!) but there are
also a few tables available inside and outside. Then on the way out, I am always,
always tempted by the pasticcini (little pastries) and the gorgeous cakes.
Often times, I will get an after breakfast treat of a pasticcini and I am
dreaming of getting one of their beautiful cakes for my birthday.
Like I
said, I highly recommend this place if you find yourself in Bologna. I think
all of my friends who have come to Bologna and my mom would agree – it is worth
the short car ride, taxi ride, bus, or bike ride from Bologna to have breakfast
there.
P.S. There
is also an amazing shop next door to the bakery with a great selection of dairy
products and fresh pasta, among other things. Last time I went in there I got a
piece of prize winning (literally it had won a price at a national cheese
competition) blue cheese with blueberries. It was delicious!
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