Showing posts with label Bologna. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bologna. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Favorites: Pasticceria Santo Stefano

Awhile back I told you about my favorite place for breakfast outside of the city center and now I want to share my favorite place for breakfast in the center of Bologna. Before going any further, I think it is important to clarify what constitutes breakfast in Italy. There are no big breakfasts with eggs, bacon, pancakes, and toast. If fact, if you describe a breakfast like that to an Italian you will see them squirm with discomfort at the idea and question how anyone could ever eat that much in the morning. Breakfast in Italy consists of a cappuccino and a pastry. And that is a big breakfast! I know many Italians who have nothing more than an espresso. So when I talk about my favorite breakfast spots, I am talking about a pasticceria (bakery) where they serve coffee and pastries.
My favorite spot in the centro (the historical city center of Bologna) is Pasticceria Santo Stefano. When you walk in there are huge display cases on the left full of delicious pastries. If it is the weekend and I have time to spare then I examine all of the goodies in the case, make up my mind as to what I am going to order, and then make my way to the sala (room) in the back where there are many tables and chairs to sit at and even a few couches and comfy chairs which is where I usually make myself at home. If it is a weekday, then I will have my breakfast Italian style standing up at the bar; cappuccino in one hand, pastry in the other. I especially love going to this pasticceria in spring and early summer when they set up the tables outside in the street. You can enjoy your breakfast, people watch, and soak up the first rays of the day as the sun peeks up over the tops of the buildings and if you pick your table just right, you will also catch a glimpse of the Asinelli tower (the tallest tower in Bologna) soaring above the surrounding buildings.
My favorite pastry is the sfogliatine con mele e crema. It is a rectangle piece of flaky, buttery pastry dough with a layer of cream and thin slices of apples on top. It is flaky, sweet but not too sweet, and oh so satisfying! I am normally a very slow eater but each time I order this pastry I find myself taking bite after bite until it disappears and I am left wondering where my pastry went. 
If you are not into sweet pastries, they also have some savory varieties. My favorite is their cereali (multi-grain croissant) which has a nice nutty flavor to it. And if you are in the mood for something a little heavier (even though you will probably get the side eye from most Italians) they often have some of the multi-grain croissants made into a sandwich with speck (salt cured and smoked ham) and brie. Yum!

I highly recommend spending a leisurely Saturday or Sunday morning at this pasticceria. Order a pastry (or maybe two or three – no one will tell and I promise you I did this more than once when I first moved here) and a coffee and relax and enjoy la dolce vita. 
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Thursday, December 26, 2013

Christmas in Bologna

Neptune's fountain with Bologna's Christmas tree.
Buon Natale and Merry Christmas! I hope everyone who celebrated yesterday had a great day with family, friends, and loved ones. I love Christmas in Bologna. My favorite part is how the city decorates for Christmas; they string white, twinkly lights all over the city and along the front of the the Asinelli tower, the tallest tower in the center of town. I remember the very first time I saw the lights and the excitement and thrill I felt. Every year, when I see the lights for the first time it makes me smile. The city feels inviting, intimate, and comfortable – like the soft sweater you always go back to when it is cold and you want to feel warm and cozy. The lights cast a warm glow over the whole city and could make even the biggest Scrooge or Grinch smile and remember the true spirit of Christmas (love, kindness, and gratitude).
 
Torre Asinelli (the Asinelli tower - the tallest in Bologna) all decked out with lights for Christmas! The tower with the lights on it can be seen for miles and miles around!
 
I love the creativity of this decoration. In addition to the lights, this shop owner strung up presents under the portico.
One of my favorite little streets in Bologna, Via del Luzzo, always looks so festive completely covered with Christmas lights.

Glimpes of the tower, shining bright, can be seen from all over the city.
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Sunday, November 24, 2013

Enologica 2013 - wines from Emilia Romagna

 
Yesterday we spent the day at Enologica. Enologica is an event that takes place once a year and brings together wine producers from all over Emilia Romagna. In the past the event was held in Faenza but this year it moved to Bologna. It was held inside of Palazzo Re Enzo right in the heart of Bologna. Obviously, the day was filled with meeting many wonderful producers and trying lots of wine but equally impressive and awe-inspiring was the beautiful venue in which the event was held.
I had never been inside of Palazzo Re Enzo before and I had to repeatedly pinch myself throughout the day at the beauty of the room. The walls are covered in frescoes and hanging in the hall are eight massive, sparkling chandeliers – which add glamour to the room and make anyone spending time there feel like royalty. Through the big windows of the hall you can see out into Piazza Maggiore and catch beautiful glimpses of the Basilica of San Petronio and the Comune building and clock tower – perfectly framed by the windows.
The Basilica of San Petronio
 
the clock tower of the Comune building
I felt very lucky to spend the day, which was grey, rainy and cold outside, in that gorgeous room tasting wines from our beautiful region.
There were over 110 wineries represented at Enologica from every part of Emilia Romagna – from the Adriatic coast, to Imola, the Bolognese hills, Modena, Reggio Emilia, and Parma. We tried as many wines as we possibly could before stumbling to dinner that evening. Here are my favorite wineries and wines that I discovered at Enologica:
Many of the wineries that we discovered at Enologica tell the story of a family and Palazzona di Maggio is no different. This is a family run business that has been passed down from one generation to the next generation. Antonella, the mom, does the marketing while her son is in charge of making the wines. I had the pleasure of going to the winery this last week and as they showed me the Palazzona (big villa) where their relatives had lived in the past and the cantina it really felt like I was being welcomed into their home. All of their wine is carefully crafted and is enjoyable to drink but my absolute favorite was the Dracone 2008 (the bottle with the white label above) - a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It is complex and full of flavor without being heavy. Andrea and I enjoyed a bottle the other night with dinner and we finished the bottle, quite quickly I might add, and we were left wanting more. It is equally good by itself as well as served with food. Its big brother the riserva '08 is also quite nice but packs a bigger punch and for that reason I would reserve it for having alongside a nice, hearty meal.
The sweet people behind Palazzona di Maggio - Antonella and her husband, Federico.
A new to me winery that I discovered at Enologica was Ballardini Riccardo. The first wine they offered me to try was their dry white wine made from Pignoletto and Sauvignon grapes.
I love when wineries have a sense of humor! Ilmiobianco means my white. The name rang true for me as this was my favorite white wine that I tried yesterday.
It was light and refreshing and easy to drink. It would be great with fish or frankly at any time during the summer when it is sticky and hot and you are looking for a way to cool off.
Vigne Le Case was a standout red for me at Enologica! It was obviously a favorite for both me and Andrea because we now have 2 bottles sitting on the shelf here at our apartment. I wonder how long those will last.
At least for 7 euro a bottle we can afford to buy more! Nothing better than delicious wine for a great price!
My favorite wine I tried from Ballardini was their Sangiovese Superiore Riserva Vigna Le Case. They poured me a try of this wine while telling me that it is aged entirely in stainless steel and cement. I tasted the wine and did a double take - did they say this had no contact with wood because there were definitely the typical flavors you get when a wine is aged in wood. There was a roundness and a subtle hint of vanilla that left me asking for a second pour. I loved it as much for the taste as for the way in which it surprised me.
 
Another new discovery for me was the winery Tenuta di Aljano. This winery really impressed me because they were so consistent (not to mention delicious) across the board from their sparkling wines to their whites and their reds.
The next time we head to the Reggio Emilia area we will definitely be stopping into their winery to learn more about their production and of course, to try more of their wines.
 
This event goes on for three days and I can now see why. There are so many wonderful wines to try that you would need more than three days to get to know all of the producers and to try all of their wines. It is a great reminder of how very fortunate we are in this region to have so many remarkable producers and wines at our finger tips. 
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Friday, November 15, 2013

Chocolate Festival

The Cioccoshow (Chocolate Festival) happens every November in Piazza Maggiore. Chocolate producers come from all over Italy to show off and sell their chocolate creations. There are the standards like truffles, chocolate covered fruit and hot chocolate and then there are the producers who really dream big and think outside the box…
Chocolate purse complete with the Louis Vuitton markings. This is hilarious because the Louis Vuitton purses are so coveted here in Italy and now people can have one or give it as a gift for just 15,00 euros!
Locks, Bottle Openers, Scissors, Dice
These nuts and bolts actually screw together and apart! And of course you can't have nuts and bolts without a wrench - those were available too!
Salami, Pretzels, Rosetta (bread), Swiss and Parmigiano cheese!! These were probably my favorite chocolate creations at the show. They looked extremely realistic! 
I love looking at all of the creative things people are making out of chocolate but my favorite part of the Chocolate Fest is trying the chocolate! I tried as many different things as possible before the chocolate coma started to set in and I had to wave the white flag. Here are my top 3 favorite things I ate at the chocolate festival this year:
I tried the dried apricots, dried pineapple, candied orange and candied lemon each of which was covered with a layer of chocolate. I have to say, to my surprise, the candied lemon was my favorite. The tartness of the lemon stood up nicely to the sweetness of the chocolate and it provided a great contrast.
 
I have to break some bad news about the Chocolate Show - not all of the chocolate is good. I have actually tried chocolate that I did not like and that I ended up throwing away! Last year, Andrea and I tried truffles from a few different vendors and unfortunately, we were not impressed with any of them. This year we tried the truffles from GastronomiaTurchi and they were fantastic! We tried quite a few different flavors (including raspberry, rum, and even aceto balsamico) and they were all well balanced and the flavors tasted genuine and not at all artificial.
 
I believe this vendor was a new addition to the Chocolate Fest this year - or I missed them in the past. Something that can happen at the Chocolate Fest is that you fall into a haze from seeing booth after booth that are selling similar products so when I saw this booth I was excited to see something different and I knew I had to try it. They had all kinds of different nut brittles (walnut, almond, pistacchio, hazelnut) that were spread thin and then backed with a layer of dark or milk chocolate. It was so crunchy and satisfying! Andrea and I have remarked to each other a couple times today that we wish we would have bought more so we would have had some around the house to munch on. 
 The Chocolate Fest continues for another two days (through Sunday) and I am pretty sure we will be lured back over the weekend to pick up a few more sweet treats!
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